No-Bake Speckled Cupcakes

2015 was the year I declared I would learn a new skill–crochet. Likely if you are reading this, you’ve seen all the friggin adorable crocheted things on Pinterest (which is where my desire to learn this craft came from). Well, I did it. In July of 2015, I borrowed this book from the library (which I highly recommend if you’re a beginner or want to learn) and taught myself how to crochet.

Not wanting to make a million potholders and granny squares, I chose to make a unicorn by OneDogWoof for my little E. She loved it. Of course, T then wanted one for himself. So I tweaked the pattern a little bit and was able to come up with a dinosaur for him to love on. (They both picked out their colors.) Some say it was an ambitious first project, but I know if I didn’t have to think about HOW it works, I would have lost interest quickly.

These last few months have been a blast. I’ve been crocheting like crazy and making lots of fun things for everyone (more on those to come). I even joined a group on Facebook full of “hookers”(those who crochet because we use hooks!) for support, help, and ideas. The group belongs to Sarah Zimmerman, who is the brains behind Repeat Crafter Me.

I recently shared my latest creation in the group, and the positive response was overwhelming! I mean, I had to plug my phone in because it was dying from all the notifications. Seriously, I’ve never had 800 people “like” something of mine. I promised I would share my pattern with all of those lovely ladies, so here it is. I used some of the Divine Hat pattern and inspiration from Sarah’s Cupcake Hat, but tweaked them to make them my own. Please bear with me as this is my very first time writing a pattern. Let me know if you find any mistakes!

Materials required:

J hook (6.0 mm)

Worsted weight yarn (Size 4)

-Frosting top takes less than 200 yards

-Cupcake liner takes less than 200 yards

-Scrap piece for cherry

**amounts used depends on the height required for your hat

Yarn needle to sew in ends

Little bits of yarn scraps or stuffing to fill cherry

Here’s what I used for my two hats:

Notes:

-Hat is worked from the top down. This pattern is worked in rounds that join at the end. Instructions are given in pattern to hide the chain 2 at the beginning of each round.

-Chain 2 at the beginning of rounds are not counted in the stitch count.

-Stitches used: Magic ring, SC, DC, FPDC, HDC, FPHDC, BPHDC, sc2tog, FPSC

-Gauge: Circle in Round 4 should measure approximately 3″ across. For child hat, with J 6.0mm hook, Round 4 should measure approximately 2.5″ across.

-The height of the hat can easily be adjusted by adding or subtracting final rows in both the frosting and the cupcake liner. If you make the pattern as written, it measures approximately 8″ from the top of the hat to the bottom of the brim (not including the cherry) and 9.5″ across the brim. (I’ve made 3 of these and they’ve all come out the same exact size).

-They are big on my 3.5 year olds and easily cover their ears (their heads both measure 20.5″). It fits a bit more snug on my head and stretches to fit, but covers my ears as well (my head measures 23″). So, big on a child, but snug on an adult if you want to know the size as written. If you go down a hook size, it would probably fit a bit better on a small child/big toddler. The next time I make one for myself, I’ll probably go up a hook or two. I don’t care for my hats being so snug.

Frosting:

Round 1: Magic ring, chain 2, 15 DC, slip stitch to top of first DC and pull circle closed (this pushes the chain 2 to the back.) [15 DC]

Round 2: Chain 2, FPDC on every DC from round 1 to end. Slip stitch to top of first FPDC, not chain 2 (this pushes the chain to the back.) [15 FPDC]

Round3: Chain 2, FPDC on every FPDC from previous round, DC in space between every FPDC. Slip stitch to the top of the first FPDC, not chain 2. [15 FPDC, 15 DC]

Round 4: Chain 2, 1 FPDC on the same FPDC you slip stitched to in the previous round (this pushes the chain 2 to the back), 1 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 1 stitch. *1 FPDC on the previous round’s FPDC, 1 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Slip stitch to the top of the first FPDC, not chain 2 (this pushed the chain to the back). [15 FPDC, 15 DC]

Round 5: Chain 2, 1 FPDC on the same FPDC you slip stitched to in the previous round (this pushes the chain 2 to the back), 2 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 1 stitch. *1 FPDC on the previous round’s FPDC, 2 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 1 stitch.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Slip stitch to the top of the first FPDC, not chain 2 (this pushed the chain to the back). [15 FPDC, 30 DC]

Round 6: Chain 2, 1 FPDC on the same FPDC you slip stitched to in the previous round (this pushes the chain 2 to the back), 2 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 2 stitches. *1 FPDC on the previous round’s FPDC, 2 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Slip stitch to the top of the first FPDC, not chain 2 (this pushed the chain to the back). [15 FPDC, 30 DC]

Round 7: Chain 2, 1 FPDC on the same FPDC you slip stitched to in the previous round (this pushes the chain 2 to the back), 3 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 2 stitches. *1 FPDC on the previous round’s FPDC, 3 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Slip stitch to the top of the first FPDC, not chain 2 (this pushed the chain to the back). [15 FPDC, 45 DC] **NOTE: This is usually the round where the edges start to curl up. Not a big deal. You will get them to lay straight at the end.**

Round 8: Chain 2, 1 FPDC on the same FPDC you slip stitched to in the previous round (this pushes the chain 2 to the back), 3 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 3 stitches. *1 FPDC on the previous round’s FPDC, 3 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Slip stitch to the top of the first FPDC, not chain 2 (this pushed the chain to the back). [15 FPDC, 45 DC]

Round 9: Repeat round 8.

Round 10: Chain 2, 1 FPDC on the same FPDC you slip stitched to in the previous round (this pushes the chain 2 to the back), 4 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 3 stitches. *1 FPDC on the previous round’s FPDC, 4 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 3 stitches.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Slip stitch to the top of the first FPDC, not chain 2 (this pushed the chain to the back). [15 FPDC, 60 DC]

Round 11: Chain 2, 1 FPDC on the same FPDC you slip stitched to in the previous round (this pushes the chain 2 to the back), 4 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 4 stitches. *1 FPDC on the previous round’s FPDC, 4 DC in the space between the FPDC you just made and the next DC from the previous round, skip 4 stitches.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Slip stitch to the top of the first FPDC, not chain 2 (this pushed the chain to the back). [15 FPDC, 60 DC]

Round 12-15: Repeat Round 11. Add more rounds for a more slouchy hat. To accommodate an adult, I would work up a few more rounds adding 5 DC to the space. This will change the stitch count going around the hat for the entire rest of the pattern since you are making it bigger and adding stitches. Don’t worry. It’s the same idea, just with more stitches. Easy adjustment.

Round 16: Chain 1, HDC in same stitch as chain. Continue working HDC around the hat. Slip stitch to first HDC. [75 HDC]

Round 17: Chain 1, FPSC in same stitch as chain1. FPSC around each HDC from the previous round. This pushes the bottom edge of the previous round to the inside of the hat which is where you will be attaching the cupcake liner. Slip stitch to the beginning FPSC. [75 FPSC]

Round 18: Scalloped edge is worked IN THE ROW CREATED WITH ROUND 17 (the v stitches that sit on the OUTSIDE of the hat.) Chain 1. SC in same stitch as chain 1. *Skip 2 stitches. Work 8 DC in the third stitch. Skip 2 stitches. SC in the third stitch.* Repeat *to* all the way around, ending with a slip stitch into the SC at the beginning of the round instead of the last SC of the series. [12 scallops]

***NOTE*** If you are making this hat smaller than written here and stopped the spiral rows earlier than the pattern, you will most likely need to make the scallops smaller to accommodate the size difference. I have not tested this theory, so you will have to be the judge on that. Let me know if you do and I’ll tack the modification on! Same goes for making the hat bigger.

Round 19: Chain 1. Work 1 SC in every stitch. Slip stitch to the first SC. Finish off and break yarn. Weave in ends.

Cupcake Liner:

Round 1: Using cupcake liner yarn, attach yarn anywhere on the edge UNDER the scallop flaps with a slip stitch. To find this spot, fold back the scallops so they are now sandwiched between you and the rest of the hat. Chain 1, HDC in same stitch as chain 1. HDC all the way around. Slip stitch to the first HDC of the round.

Round 2-8: Chain 2, FPHDC in stitch. BPHDC in next stitch. Repeat FP+BP HDC pattern all the way around. Slip stitch to first FPHDC. Add or subtract rows as necessary to achieve your desired outcome. Finish off and break yarn. Weave in ends.

Cherry:

Using red yarn for cherry…

**Rounds for cherry are worked in continuous rounds without joining.

Round 1: Magic circle, chain 1, 6 SC in Magic Circle. [6 SC]

Round 2: 2 SC in each SC from the previous round. Using your tapestry needle, move the leftover tail from your magic circle through the very center of the magic circle so that it now hangs on the right side of the cherry. This will be your stem. DO NOT CUT THIS YET! I like to tie a little slip knot on the wrong side of the cherry as this keeps the stem centered rather than being pulled into one of the SC s in the magic circle. [12 SC]

Round 3: *2 SC in next stitch, 1 SC in next stitch.* Repeat from *to* 6 times. [18 SC]

Round 4:*2 SC in next stitch, SC in next 2 stitches.* Repeat from *to* 5 times. [24 SC]

Round 5-7: 1 SC in each stitch. [24 SC]

Round 8: *SC in next 2 stitches, sc2tog in next.* Repeat from *to* 7 times. [16 SC, 8 sc2tog]

Round 9: *1 SC in next stitch, sc2tog in next.* Repeat from *to* 9 times. [9 SC, 9 sc2tog]

Round 10: Fill cherry with fiberfill or yarn scraps. *1 SC in next stitch, sc2tog in next.* Repeat from *to* 2-3 times. Fasten off and close cherry, leaving a long piece of yarn to attach cherry to top of hat.

Attach cherry to top of hat and weave in end. Tie a knot about 1-2 inches from the top of the cherry in the tail you pulled through the magic ring. Cut yarn after knot and you’ve made your cherry stem!

End Notes:

Use this pattern ’til your heart’s content. All I ask is that you do not use my own photos as your own, link back to me with your work, and don’t cut and paste the pattern as your own. Just link back to me. Please. Oh, and you can always follow me on Facebook or Pinterest or Instagram or Twitter or Tumblr.

I love to see your photos!! Tag me on Facebook (@Chaos & Chop Suey) with your finished masterpieces or share them on my Facebook wall!